Please note: James' blog has moved to a Wordpress site. To access it, please visit http://jameswiebe.wordpress.com/. All posts have been transferred to the new site, and all new posts will only be accessible via Wordpress. Thank you for your interest!
I strapped a GoPro to my head and flew the pattern at Sun N Fun.
It shows takeoff, pattern, and landing, all just as I saw it.
I was flying our Burgundy II demo airplane with a 45HP four stroke motor. I flew it a lot!
On Saturday, I was following the Just Super STOL and I had fun trying to match his landing lengths and takeoff rolls. If any of you readers were there, how did I do?? :-)
As I was getting ready to takeoff one more time on Saturday, I looked down and noted that I had a flat tire!! It was a good time to quit, so we called it a day and I taxied back. I couldn't find any hole in the tire, perhaps I spun the tube and broke the stem when hitting the brakes hard (while showing off the short stop landing).
CLICK HERE for the youtube video with the camera strapped to my head.
CLICK HERE for the youtube video taken from the lift strut.
(Two different videos -- two different views!)
Showing posts with label Aluminum airplane. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Aluminum airplane. Show all posts
Monday, April 15, 2013
Monday, April 8, 2013
Updated Ultralight Aircraft from Belite: Need to know details
Ultralight aircraft in metallic burgundy with accent copper |
Q: What is a Belite UltraCubTM?
A: The
Belite UltraCub is a predominantly aluminum ultralight airplane manufactured in
kit and Ready To Fly form by Belite Aircraft.
It is available in several different configurations, with variations of instrumentation,
landinggear, assembly materials and engines.
All configurations evoke the classic look of a Piper J3 Cub, hence the
name, UltraCub. Some of the key
characteristics include:
- Removable
rear turtledeck; the plane may be flown either way.
- Legal
under FAR 103 (responsibility lies on the owner / operator)
- Precision
CNC cut aluminum parts in cabin and throughout assembly
- Folding
wings (must remove turtledeck)
- Large
wing area and flaperon area designed for low speed flight.
- Enormous
windshield and sunroof
- Multiple
storage compartments
UltraCub flies away |
Q:
What standard features and benefits does the Ready To Fly UltraCub have?
A: All
configurations include:
- CNC
cut aluminum parts throughout the entire airplane. We use a CNC computer automated bed
router for sheet metal and a four axis CNC robot for billet aluminum
pieces.
- Taildragger
configuration.
- Folding
wings. (must remove turtledeck). Easily and quickly fold!
- Standard
basic instruments: inclinometer, EGT/CHT, airspeed, AGL altimeter.
- 5”
tires and wheels.
- Rear
turtledeck, fully covered. (Higher
end configurations also cover the rear of the fuselage.)
- OracalTM
vinyl covering, with your choice of single color. Very beautiful finishes!
- Rear
steerable tailwheel with steel tail wheel spring.
- Aluminum
fuselage – riveted construction utilizing mainly 2024T3 longerons; also
7075 and 6061T6 aluminum in critical areas. Other alloys are also
used.
- Lightweight
6061T6 aluminum lift struts.
- 4130
Chromaloy steel landing gear “A” frames
- Polycarbonate
windshield and sunroof
- Enhanced
wing area (40” x 144”)
- Enhanced
flaperons (12” x 120”), reduces stall speed and improves roll control.
- Intermixed
aileron / flap controls, providing standard stick (aileron) and standard
flap (flap handle) control with 3 notches of flaps.
- Multiple
storage compartments under seat
- 5
gallon plastic fuel tank.
Q:
What does a Ready to Fly UltraCub cost?
A:
$15,995 + $2.50/mile delivery charge (one way) to any US destination. This configuration includes a 28HP Hirth 2
stroke engine. Other configurations are
also available with 4 stroke engines, carbon fiber options, and additional
instrumentation. If you want everything
in our option list, the price can hit $40,000. At that price, you should expect, and you will receive, a state of the art ultralight aircraft.
Final approach for UltraCub |
Q:
What does an UltraCub Kit
cost?
A:
$8,495 includes the TurtleDeck and everything firewall back except instruments,
paint, rivets, glue and the fuel tank.
Stiff link main gear are included.
Popular options include our spring main gear and our disc brake
assemblies. It also doesn’t include a
fuel tank, but we buy ours at Walmart for about $12, and you can too.
Q:
What type of construction is
used in the fuselage?
A: It
is straightforward aluminum construction. All of the cabin area and most
of the gussets have pre-drilled holes, and the rear fuselage is pre-aligned,
mostly pre-drilled and ready for you to start drilling and riveting. All
main cabin bulkhead formers and gussets are CNC cut and have many pre-drilled
pilot holes as well. The builder has to trim some of the cabin longerons
and members, but as these lengths are short, and all formers are square, the
resulting assembly process is easy and straightforward. Aluminum may be
cut with a carbide blade table saw, or a band saw, or a hack saw.
Cabin Assembly Detail |
Q:
What type of construction is used in
the wings?
A:
The wigs are build with aluminum spars and CNC cub Baltic birch ribs.
Everything slips together and is locked in place with Gorilla glue. Aluminum ribs are also available, as are
carbon fiber spars.
Q:
What type of construction is used in the
tail feathers?
A:
The purchaser may select between aerodynamic horizontal stabilizer/elevator or
pre-welded stabilizer/elevator. The pre-welded feathers simply need to be
covered. The aerodynamic feathers are easy to build and very
straightforward, like a big model airplane wing.
Q:
How is the structure covered?
A: We
use generic Dacron, glued and shrunk to the underlying wing or fuselage
structure, and riveted to the aluminum ribs. We use Stewart Systems glue for most other
fabric work, and we use Oracal vinyl (available in about 80 colors) for
covering over the shrunk fabric. Kit builders may use whatever system
they are comfortable with. We supply 30
yards of Dacron with each kit!
Q:
What does an UltraCub weigh?
A: As
built by Belite, with a reliable four stroke engine, and as described in this
document, it weighs 278 pounds. This is the maximum allowed by FAR Part
103. (Our configuration includes a parachute which is deployed by hand,
for which FAR Part 103 provides a 24 pound allowance.) The rear turtledeck is
not included in this weighing, as it is removable for flight. (The rear
turtledeck weighs about 7 pounds). Much lighter weights are possible by
using two stroke engines. We don’t weigh
anything required for flight; if assembled like our Sun N Fun demonstrator, the
airplane may be flown without the windshield, for instance. We even made our instrument panel easily
removable, and James has flown one of the UltraCubs without a main seat – he really
did it, just to prove a point.
Landing an UltraCub |
Q:
I see that your configuration
doesn’t include an engine cowl. How could I add one?
A: It
is available as an option for $350. We don’t weigh them as they are
removable for flight.
Q:
What other options are available?
A: There
are all kinds of options. Check our
price list for full details; we’re even offering amphibious floats. Carbon fiber, wheels, covering completeness,
paint on the aluminum, type of engine, type of parachute, instruments… Doors – really well designed doors. Too much to discuss here.
Belite Aircraft are available with emergency parachute. |
Q:
Are other instruments
available?
A: We
are happy to install any instrument manufactured by Belite Electronics, including
our Multi Function Display, our Turn Coordinators, fuel gauges, etc. We
do not install other instruments. We recommend you have other
installations (EG, radio) performed by your local instrument shop.
MultiFunction Instrument from Belite Electronics |
Q:
Does the four stroke engine
have electric start?
A:
It is available. It adds 10 pounds weight, and will work in high
end configurations.
Q:
What power does the 1/2VW four stroke
engine develop?
A: James
likes the 45HP variation with Nickasil cylinders. He runs it with a 58 x 22 propeller, which
derates it to about 38HP. That makes it
very much in line with the original Kitfox Lite, which had a 2 stroke engine of
slightly less horsepower. Fuel consumption
hasn’t been nailed down to the last drop, but James is hoping to get it below
1.5 GPH in low cruise.
1/2 VW Engine on Belite UltraCub |
Q:
Who is the engine vendor?
A:
Scott Casler, Hummel Engines is our first choice for 1/2VW aircraft
engines. Scott makes a great engine and
stands behind his work. www.hummelengines.com
Q:
Will other 1/2VW four stroke engines work?
A:
Absolutely. We recommend at least 37HP. Great Plains is a good
source for plans for a complete kit. See: http://www.greatplainsas.com/schalfvw.html
And as of this writing, their 1/2VW kit is under $3400. Furthermore, an online build manual for 1/2VW
engines may be found here:
Q: What
about the motor mount for a Belite with the half V/W?
A:
We designed it, and it is
pretty small and sweet. It is welded out of 4130 steel.
Q:
What kind of gasoline does the
engine use?
A: 91
Octane auto gas. 100LL will also work just fine, but like any other aircraft
engine, pay attention to lead fouling in the spark plugs.
Happy Flying from James! |
Friday, April 5, 2013
Belite UltraCub Detail Photos (AKA Burgundy II)
Please note: James' blog has moved to a Wordpress site. To access it, please visit http://jameswiebe.wordpress.com/. All posts have been transferred to the new site, and all new posts will only be accessible via Wordpress. Thank you for your interest!
Flew the Burgundy UltraCub II for the first time ever, yesterday.
Amazing.
Hit the power, plane got light and started flying too quickly.
Flew it with and without the turtledeck.
Looks just like a little cub.
Weighed it the morning before the flight: 278.8 pounds. The legal max weight is 278.0, but we can remove a little and make it go under. It includes a parachute, so FAR 103 says: 254 + 24 = 278 max weight. Besides, we weighed it on two bathroom scales and mail scale. At least the mail scale is accurate. :-)
This is with the beefy, rumbly, reliable, good sounding, 4 stroke engine.
I have a cruise prop on, which is ridiculous.
Here's the pics:
(There are many more pics from this photo shoot on our flickr account.)
Flew the Burgundy UltraCub II for the first time ever, yesterday.
Amazing.
Hit the power, plane got light and started flying too quickly.
Flew it with and without the turtledeck.
Looks just like a little cub.
Weighed it the morning before the flight: 278.8 pounds. The legal max weight is 278.0, but we can remove a little and make it go under. It includes a parachute, so FAR 103 says: 254 + 24 = 278 max weight. Besides, we weighed it on two bathroom scales and mail scale. At least the mail scale is accurate. :-)
This is with the beefy, rumbly, reliable, good sounding, 4 stroke engine.
I have a cruise prop on, which is ridiculous.
Here's the pics:
(There are many more pics from this photo shoot on our flickr account.)
Belite UltraCub looks pretty |
Cabin detail on Belite Ultralight Airplane |
Belite UltraCub flies over. 4 Stroke 1/2VW engine. |
Inside sunroof attach detail. |
Landing an ultracub. Turtledeck not yet installed. |
Panel view. |
Turtledeck on, Belite UltraCub |
Sunroof attach detail overhead view |
Rudder view |
Takeoff!! |
Belite Ultralight Airplane Climbing out |
I love this plane. |
More windshield detail |
Monday, March 11, 2013
Customer Cabin Pics
Please note: James' blog has moved to a Wordpress site. To access it, please visit http://jameswiebe.wordpress.com/. All posts have been transferred to the new site, and all new posts will only be accessible via Wordpress. Thank you for your interest!
A customer sent me a couple of nice pics of his cabin assembly, in progress.
A customer sent me a couple of nice pics of his cabin assembly, in progress.
Belite Ultralite Aircraft Cabin Assembly |
Belite Ultralight Plane Cabin Assembly |
Sunday, February 17, 2013
Floats!!! Amphibious Floats!!!
Please note: James' blog has moved to a Wordpress site. To access it, please visit http://jameswiebe.wordpress.com/. All posts have been transferred to the new site, and all new posts will only be accessible via Wordpress. Thank you for your interest!
Here's the first photos of our upcoming float offering for ultralight aircraft.
Constructed entirely of aluminum, these floats are designed to work with retractable wheels or as straight floats.
In other words, we're preparing to deliver an amphibious float, and therefore, an amphibious ultralight. So cool.
The straight version will weigh less than 28 pounds. (The FAA allows 30 pounds per float in FAR Part 103.)
It will be fun to announce the pricing, and also the full specs. Here's the photos (the float is upside down...):
Here's the first photos of our upcoming float offering for ultralight aircraft.
Constructed entirely of aluminum, these floats are designed to work with retractable wheels or as straight floats.
In other words, we're preparing to deliver an amphibious float, and therefore, an amphibious ultralight. So cool.
The straight version will weigh less than 28 pounds. (The FAA allows 30 pounds per float in FAR Part 103.)
It will be fun to announce the pricing, and also the full specs. Here's the photos (the float is upside down...):
Wheel well takes shape. |
Front skin is quite riveting. |
Some parts still clecoed on. |
Computer CNC machining makes for exacting fits. |
Strength, lightweight, beauty. And 7000 series aluminum alloys in critical places. |
Easy building for folks who want to do it themselves. |
Some of the bulkheads are sold. Some aren't. |
Before the skin goes on. |
Blue Plane Blue Sky
Please note: James' blog has moved to a Wordpress site. To access it, please visit http://jameswiebe.wordpress.com/. All posts have been transferred to the new site, and all new posts will only be accessible via Wordpress. Thank you for your interest!
First flight of a blue Belite....
Many more pics of this experience can be found on Belite's flickr account.
First flight of a blue Belite....
Blue Belite flies overhead on first flight |
Tail of aluminum Belite ultralight airplane. |
Lift strut attachment at wing. |
Belite flies by. |
Monday, February 4, 2013
Wrapping up the Belite Aluminum Cabin Construction, #11!
Please note: James' blog has moved to a Wordpress site. To access it, please visit http://jameswiebe.wordpress.com/. All posts have been transferred to the new site, and all new posts will only be accessible via Wordpress. Thank you for your interest!
This is the final installment in the Belite Aluminum Cabin Construction.
As I mentioned last time, we've got a short list of items to go. Let's cover these last items. (This doesn't include options such as doors or windows; optional items will be covered another time.)
This is what we have left to do:
A) Finish riveting in the small seat.
B) Construct and fit the main seat.
C) Install the bottom strut attach reinforcement bars.
D) Attach the seat belts. We don't supply the seat belt, but an example installation is shown.
E) Attach the fuel tank. As we do not supply a fuel tank, an example installation is shown.
F) Attach the wings.
G) Attach the top cabin windshield ribs.
H) Attach the windshield.
Let's get going.
A) After thoroughly checking all underseat fittings and hardware, rivet in the small seat. Use 3/16 rivets on the front and back.
B) The main seat bottom and back are pre-cut, and are supplied elsewhere in your kit. We recommend riveting the bottom and back using scrap material. As an alternative, consider using a hinge (NOT INCLUDED IN KIT) and preparing as follows.
Rivet hinge material to the bottom and back. Also rivet three lengths of angle aluminum to the back of the seat.
I'm sorry I don't have a better picture of the back seat, showing the reinforcement riveted to the rear. The rivets are visible in most of these photos.
Use nutserts (rivets that contain nuts) in four locations on the bottom, so that the seat may be attached and removed easily.
Install trim along top edge to prevent problems with the sharp edge.
C. Install the bottom strut reinforcement bars and Y strut.
2 reinforcement bars are included with the kit. You will need to drill them out as follows:
D. Attach Seat Belts.
Seat belts are NOT supplied with the kit. We recommend using a four point seat belt. The seat belts are attached as follows. Install reinforcement angle aluminum to the lower attachment points:
E. Install fuel tank.
We use inexpensive 5 gallon plastic tanks. They are available in various shapes, I constructed a metal flange on my shopbot to match the bottom of the tanks we are currently using. We've also used aluminum angle for the same purpose. As can be seen below, the flange was riveted to the deck and then straps were used to secure the tank (more than shown in the photo, below).
The fuel line was run to a quick disconnect fitting, the tanks was vented, and it was quickly ready to fly.
Fuel tanks may also be installed below the deck. Also, we've used a lot of aluminum tanks, and they look great too!
F. Attach the wings.
The following rules MUST BE FOLLOWED:
1. The cabin must be leveled left / right and fore / aft. This means that taildraggers have to have the tail lifted off the ground.
2. Remember, the hangar floor is often unlevel. Use a water level to verify that the wingtips are level to each other.
3. Wings should have 3 to 4 inches of dihedral. This is tested by running a line from one wingtip to the other, then measuring the relative height at the center cabin. We've flown with more and also with less, but this is our target value for dihedral.
4. Wings must be square to each other and to the cabin centerline. This is tested by measuring from the rear wingtip to the rear of the fuselage on each side. The distances must be equal +/- 1 inch, even tighter is preferable. The front line of the leading edge must be dead straight. Get a second or third opinion. Move slowly.
5. While attaching the wings, you will want at least one helper, and a way to hold each wing in position temporarily with a long stand at each wingtip.
Let's get going.
Each kit includes aluminum bushings and locknuts.
The top rear bushing location is drilled out first. This hole MUST LINE UP WITH THE Y STRUT MAIN DRILL HOLE. DRILL OUT JUST THE TOP SIDE. DO NOT DRILL THROUGH THE SQUARE TUBE BOTTOM. DO NOT DRILL THROUGH THE BOTTOM OF THE WING SPAR. Insert a pin to hold location. Repeat for other wing.
After setting wing alignment, drill out the front spar top side as well and pin. Repeat for other wing.
All spars are now pinned. It is now easy to set the dihedral, as the wings will move up and down. As soon as the dihedral is set, drill out all four locations and pin completely. The wing is now rigidly in place, and if you drop the tip supports, you will destroy your cabin and/or your wing. Don't drop the tip supports.
Pull each pin out one at a time, drill out to the OD of the bushing, and install the bushings and lock nuts, along with locktight. You will then need to file each bushing on the top and bottom to ensure a perfect fit. You will also need to drill out each bushing to accept the pin or bolt.
The wing may need to have its doubler installed. After installation of doubler, relieve back of rear spar fitting with a grinder or Dremel to allow wing folding.
CAREFULLY TEST WING FOLDING! There is possible interference at the Y strut attachment fitting. Relieve as necessary.
G. Attach the top cabin windshield ribs.
After painting, clamp each rib to the wing. This guarantees a perfect fit. Then fabricate the four attachment brackets, using the precut parts and angle aluminum. You will need to cut the angle aluminum to lengths which provide the best fit for your airplane. Rivet together; screw into wood ribs at top and bottom of bracket.
H. Attach the windshield.
Clamp the windshield to the X brace, fold to each side and clamp. Fold over windshield ribs and work screws backwards to rear.
Use nutserts on each side of windshield to allow easy removal of windshield.
Your cabin assembly is done. In fact, your airplane is nearly done.
This is the final installment in the Belite Aluminum Cabin Construction.
As I mentioned last time, we've got a short list of items to go. Let's cover these last items. (This doesn't include options such as doors or windows; optional items will be covered another time.)
This is what we have left to do:
A) Finish riveting in the small seat.
B) Construct and fit the main seat.
C) Install the bottom strut attach reinforcement bars.
D) Attach the seat belts. We don't supply the seat belt, but an example installation is shown.
E) Attach the fuel tank. As we do not supply a fuel tank, an example installation is shown.
F) Attach the wings.
G) Attach the top cabin windshield ribs.
H) Attach the windshield.
Let's get going.
A) After thoroughly checking all underseat fittings and hardware, rivet in the small seat. Use 3/16 rivets on the front and back.
B) The main seat bottom and back are pre-cut, and are supplied elsewhere in your kit. We recommend riveting the bottom and back using scrap material. As an alternative, consider using a hinge (NOT INCLUDED IN KIT) and preparing as follows.
Rivet hinge material to the bottom and back. Also rivet three lengths of angle aluminum to the back of the seat.
Closeup of hinge. |
A hinge is riveted to the bottom and back. |
Four nutserts hold the bottom seat down. They are hard to see. |
Back of seat, showing rivets and trim along top edge. |
Another view of top of seat. |
Seat folded forward, showing access to potential additional baggage compartment below fuel tank. |
2 reinforcement bars are included with the kit. You will need to drill them out as follows:
Reinforcement bars, showing drill locations. |
Place Y strut fitting over bottom tube. Drill. |
Drill to match reinforcement. Install bolts. |
Seat belts are NOT supplied with the kit. We recommend using a four point seat belt. The seat belts are attached as follows. Install reinforcement angle aluminum to the lower attachment points:
Seat belt lower attachment point, showing angle aluminum reinforcement. |
Upper Seat Belt attachment point. |
Another view of upper seat belt attachment point. |
We use inexpensive 5 gallon plastic tanks. They are available in various shapes, I constructed a metal flange on my shopbot to match the bottom of the tanks we are currently using. We've also used aluminum angle for the same purpose. As can be seen below, the flange was riveted to the deck and then straps were used to secure the tank (more than shown in the photo, below).
The fuel line was run to a quick disconnect fitting, the tanks was vented, and it was quickly ready to fly.
Fuel tank installation. |
Fuel tanks may also be installed below the deck. Also, we've used a lot of aluminum tanks, and they look great too!
F. Attach the wings.
The following rules MUST BE FOLLOWED:
1. The cabin must be leveled left / right and fore / aft. This means that taildraggers have to have the tail lifted off the ground.
2. Remember, the hangar floor is often unlevel. Use a water level to verify that the wingtips are level to each other.
3. Wings should have 3 to 4 inches of dihedral. This is tested by running a line from one wingtip to the other, then measuring the relative height at the center cabin. We've flown with more and also with less, but this is our target value for dihedral.
4. Wings must be square to each other and to the cabin centerline. This is tested by measuring from the rear wingtip to the rear of the fuselage on each side. The distances must be equal +/- 1 inch, even tighter is preferable. The front line of the leading edge must be dead straight. Get a second or third opinion. Move slowly.
5. While attaching the wings, you will want at least one helper, and a way to hold each wing in position temporarily with a long stand at each wingtip.
Let's get going.
Each kit includes aluminum bushings and locknuts.
Wing attach aluminum bushings and aluminum locknuts. |
The bottom is not yet drilled out, that's why this pin looks sloppy. |
Front spar also drilled out and pinned. |
Pull each pin out one at a time, drill out to the OD of the bushing, and install the bushings and lock nuts, along with locktight. You will then need to file each bushing on the top and bottom to ensure a perfect fit. You will also need to drill out each bushing to accept the pin or bolt.
Bushing installed. |
Spar bushing installed and spar relieved to allow folding. |
CAREFULLY TEST WING FOLDING! There is possible interference at the Y strut attachment fitting. Relieve as necessary.
G. Attach the top cabin windshield ribs.
After painting, clamp each rib to the wing. This guarantees a perfect fit. Then fabricate the four attachment brackets, using the precut parts and angle aluminum. You will need to cut the angle aluminum to lengths which provide the best fit for your airplane. Rivet together; screw into wood ribs at top and bottom of bracket.
Windshield attachment brackets. |
Clamp the windshield to the X brace, fold to each side and clamp. Fold over windshield ribs and work screws backwards to rear.
Use nutserts on each side of windshield to allow easy removal of windshield.
Tight fit at lower front of windshield. |
Nutserts on sides. |
Another view of side of windshield. |
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